Full House…

Good morning 3:30am.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Early morning at Bowls.  Perfect conditions again for this transit surfer.  Got off a flight, surfed, and back on a flight out of Hawaii.  Smart surfer man.

The feeling of riding a wave like this after a long flight must feel amazing.  Then back on a flight, recline your seat, open a cold beer, and smile all the way back home.

Jeannie Chesser and the double rainbow.

Boot Camp everyday will perfect your style.  Because in surfing, style is everything.

Bottom turn into the sunrise.

Magic board, magic life!

Round 2 we went to Sandy Beach shorebreak.  The biggest and most powerful wave on the island today!  And beautiful too!

Spending an afternoon at Bowls is interesting.  The waves are much more cleaner than the morning.  The crowd is totally different.  And the whole vibe is more stoke.  I’ve been trying to teach this girl how to take off from the top of the wave and she finally figured it out!  This is where you want to start your bottom turn.  

Super stoked to surf with Nori-san.  He owns Pioneer Saloon near Diamond Head which is very delicious.  Good surf and good food is the dream life!  

The day has come!  We’ve worked so hard to get to where we are today.  Twin fin short board, smooth bottom turn, knees bent, looking forward, and most importantly, SMILING!  Surfing doesn’t get any cooler than this.  Not to mention, all that surfing and paddling we’ve been doing has formed a very fit body.  Health is wealth!