Kimura-san brought a bottle of Jack Daniels to Indonesia.  It went from Bali to Sumbawa.  Then back to Bali again.  It left Sumbawa with our driver at 5am in the morning, and it arrived at our party that night at 9pm.  It couldn’t have been timed any better!  Jack Daniels mixed with fresh coconut water is the best.  Come to find out, that bottle was worth $1,300.  A special bottle for a special occasion.

Watching Matsu tow in foil was pretty cool.  People think it’s easy but it’s very hard to do.  The hard part is getting up, then the harder part is trying to manage all that speed.  You’re going so fast that if you fall, it’s like falling on concrete.  Luckily he didn’t fall on this one.  

This is the best way to travel around Japan.  The Toda-san camping van!  

Te-chan is making a cool little village on his property in Wakayama.  There are guys working on it every day so we got to see it transform daily.  One day this shutter on the garage was blank.

The next morning it’s looking like this.

And that same day, it’s a masterpiece!  Thank you Te-chan for letting me stay at your amazing village!

Back in the Day:  Peking Duck on 2016.

Good morning 3:20am.
North shore 6-8′ and good.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and good.
Light winds so clean morning conditions.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Did you know you have to update your iPhoto library folder if it’s old?  Yes, it doesn’t work with the new operating system.  Anyway, I just spent 3 days doing that.  Then spent a few hours looking at photos.  This one is peak summer at Shirahama Beach in Izu.  This is the same beach I entered the JPSA Pro Trials back in 1993 and became a Japanese Pro Surfer.  A huge turning point in my life…

Pretty funny seeing these fish trying to steal the tako I just hunted.  The fish lost this tug of war battle.

Hanging out in Molokai with the boys.  Living off the mountain and ocean.  Deep fried Manini for dinner.

Just another exploration boat trip with hard core travelers.  Bintang time in North Sumatra when nobody use to go to North Sumatra.

Back to reality.  This morning at Bowls was small and crowded.  I caught just one wave and came in.  Tomorrow I’m going to ride something that one wave will equal ten.  Got it?