Thursday August21日 2025年

Lessons Learned

Check out these drone shots Matsu took at Yoyo’s.  Now it’s pretty easy to explain things.  Yoyo’s was really big the whole time we were there so one of my friends in Hawaii asked me, “why didn’t you guys surf in the inside?”  As you can see, there is no inside.  The inside is dry reef!!!

The reefs in Indonesia are so cool.  They have these little channels going through the lineup.  I use those channels as guides to paddle out, and paddle in.  You can’t see it when you’re actually in the water, so you have to go by feel.  It will suck you out, and suck you in!  Just don’t miss it…

Every morning we would wake up early in Wakayama and take a 30 minute walk.  Stretch on the beach, and observe nature.  

Pretty crazy how these crabs can live so far inland.  I always wonder if you can eat them?  

These snowboard photos popped up on my iPhone.  Made me want to go back and play in the powder snow in Niseko again!  

Next time I’ll be sure to take warmer inner clothes because last time I almost froze to death.  Minus 18 degrees celsius with one tshirt was my problem.  Lessons learned…

In your FACE

Yesterday Once More:  John O in your FACE!

Always good surfing with you Brother!

October 13, 2023 Hawaii Surf Report

Lucky we live in Hawaii..

Good morning 4am.
North shore head high and good.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and good.
Trade winds at 15mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!