Thursday August21日 2025年

Indonesia Surf Aliens

Getting back to our Indo trip.  I was talking to one of the locals on the beach at Scar Reef.  When I told him that I surfed here 30 years ago, he was really surprised.  He told me nobody surfed here back then.  He told me there was nothing or nobody on the beach back then.  And he told me that he wasn’t even born back then.  So basically nobody saw our big sailboat pull up, us jumping into the surf, and getting barreled back then.  And if they did, that would have been very weird.  Surf aliens?  Imagine that.

Just up the coast from Scar Reef, there’s a spot named “Phantoms.”  We couldn’t see it from the front but as soon as we jumped off the boat from the back, I could feel the strong energy of the ocean.  As we paddled towards the shallow ledge, my mind was thinking “ok, this is not your typical perfect clean Indonesia wave, this is more like North Shore or Tahiti.  Except there is nobody who’s going to help you if you get hurt.  So if you paddle for a wave, you better commit.  My first wave was one just to test the wave and reef out.  Then the second wave was pulling into the barrel!  This uncertainty is what makes surfing remote spots like this very addicting.  

Mateus can climb the Koko Head trail in 30 minutes.  That’s amazing!

One of my wheels of my $1200 Rimowa suitcase broke.

Just go to a Rimowa store and they will sell you a new wheel for $30.  Not too bad considering these suitcases are the best in the world.  I would never travel with anything else…

Born to be Wild in October

Keahi and I were born on the same day (October 1) so we get to celebrate our birthdays together.  He’s 4 years old and I’m 14 years old.  Haha.  

In our family, there are about 9 of us who were born in October.  Seems like a lucky month for us.  I get to see my family many times in this month so that’s very nice.  I have to carry Keahi as much as possible because in a couple years, he won’t want me to carry him.  Even now he feels uncomfortable.  Haha.

Kaira was showing me her chickens and one just laid an egg right on the grass.  Perfect for my natto/rice!

Honouliwai is going to be someone great in this world.  He’s only 2 years old but has the IQ of a teenager.  He can ride a skateboard, motorcycle, surf, and is totally fearless in everything he does.  There’s only one kid in this world named Honouliwai so stay tuned for greatness.

October 1st I was still in Japan.  Celebrated with my Wakayama Family which was wonderful.  Getting older is good…

 

October 10, 2023 Hawaii Surf Report

Yesterday Once More:  Darren always on the best rights…

Good morning 4am.
Ala Moana chest high and good.
Diamond Head shoulder high and good.
Light trade winds at 10mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!