Yesterday Once More:  Darren always on the best rights…

Good morning 4am.
Ala Moana chest high and good.
Diamond Head shoulder high and good.
Light trade winds at 10mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Morning session:  Waves really good.  Here’s Carter getting ready to spray me.

These are the moments where action meets nature.    

I don’t mind getting sprayed by friends.  But nobody else.  

It’s only the beginning of October but Christmas is here!  

Want to thank Dove Wetsuits for making me this beautiful custom long sleeve top.  This is perfect for winter surf in Hawaii.  I can’t wait to wear it!

Ever since she was 2 years old, she fell in love with surfing.  So when ever she asked me to take her surfing, I never once said no.  No matter how tired or busy I was, I made the time.  The ocean makes us happy, the ocean makes us calm, and the ocean fixes everything.  

Fast forward 20 years and many epic surf sessions together, she still asks me to take her surfing.  And even now, I’ll never say no.  This is what I live for.  Watching this beautiful young woman growing year by year brings me so much joy.  The ocean made our relationship 10x better and deeper and I’m very thankful for that.  Surfing is our life…

Happy Birthday my Little Princess!  Thank you for 22 years of love and joy!  Wishing you a wonderful year ahead.

Good morning 4am.
Ala Moana waist to chest high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and getting bumpy.
Trade winds back at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!