Coming into this trip, we all knew there was going to be a big swell on the first day.  And we all know how Indonesia is tide sensitive so even though it looks small on the low tide, things can change very fast.  On the boat ride out, it was barely head high and soft.  It was looking like a super fun session.  

We jumped off the boat into this perfect right barrel.  When we arrived, it was head high and growing rapidly.  Nobody was out so we had to figure out the take off zone, which was obvious.  Waiting over the shallow slab for a very steep drop.  By my second wave, there were solid double overhead 6′ sets barreling over the shallow reef.  Very powerful and very thick.  Sometimes I caught my heart beating fast so had to slow it down.  Took a deep breath, put my head down, paddled hard, and went for it!    

Then we checked Scar Reef again on the way back.  Compared to earlier in the morning, the ocean looked a lot different.  It came alive!  There were only 2 guys out so Carter and I decided to surf it.  By the time we got to the lineup, each set was growing foot by foot.  Just in that hour we surfed, it jumped from 4′ to 8′ and it was pumping!  I haven’t felt that kind of power in a very long time.  To surf Scar Reef with only 2 other guys out is very very rare.  Compared to the morning chest high with 18 surfers out, I prefer 8′ with 2 guys all the way.  It was like a dream for me!

Back to our resort to catch up on the day.  Lot’s of stories but time to sleep.  Tomorrow should be giant and epic again!  Goodnight from Sumbawa!

Day 1: Morning session at maxing out Scar Reef! Do or Die!

Bali was just a layover for us.  Spent the time with good friends and experiencing the rapid development and traffic.  Now it was time to head to our final destination.  We get to the airport and our flight was cancelled without notice.  Normal here so we jumped on the next flight

Another airlines and another baggage rules.  You better understand it or else you will get a surprise bill at the airport.  And if you don’t want to pay for it, it will not go with you.

Better be well hydrated here or your body will crash.

Wings airlines is one of the most dangerous airlines in the world.  I knew that but didn’t want to hear that from Kimura-san right when we boarded the flight.

I’m going to spend the next week with the closest and most important people in my life.  VIP is “Very Important People” and this is it.

Arrived at Sultan M Kahuruddin Sumbawa.

Arrived 10 hours later.  Left Kuta at 5am and arrived here at 3pm.  A long day but now it’s time to empty the suitcase, get out the boards out, and enjoy this precious time together.

Picked shells, swam, took a nap, and ready to enjoy the slow life!