Whenever I coach someone, I always ask for their goals.  In the beginning, this girls goal was just to surf and have fun.  She accomplished that a while ago.  After that, I kind of set her goals for her.  I told her that in order to become a good and respected surfer, you must follow these rules.

1.  Surf good:  The better you surf, the more you will be respected.

2.  Learn mannerism:  Let the Uncle’s have priority because your day of being an Aunty will come.

3.  Paddle around:  Never paddle straight back out to the lineup after riding a wave.  Paddle around so you don’t get into anyones way.

4.  Catch and Ride:  If you paddle for a wave, you better catch it no matter what.  No surfer likes to see waves going to waste.

5.  Don’t complain:  Just be lucky we can surf here every single day.  Appreciate the ocean, and appreciate Mother Nature.

6.  Smile:  Don’t make weird faces, just relax, smile, and enjoy the ride.  

So yesterday we go to Bowls and the waves are absolutely perfect.  A perfect set comes and I say “GO!”  I follow behind filming the action.  There’s power, there’s flow, and there’s style.  This girl is ripping!  

After the first turn, I see her setting up for another one.  It was so beautiful to see.  We come back to the beach and she had the biggest smile on her face.  I didn’t even have to ask how her session was because her smile said everything…

Pretty cool to see the kids enjoying the Summer.  Reminds me of how we use to be at that age.  I was the boogie boarder and my surfer friends use to always make fun of me.  I’ll never forget that.  And that’s why I started surfing.  

Watching from the top of the cliff, you can see everything.  And you can actually hear the laughs and excitement too.

I saw this guy lose his surfboard and did the wrong thing.  He started swimming straight towards the beach.  But at Diamond Head, the wind and current will push it sideways towards Waikiki.  I know surfers that never found their boards before.  

Another surfer helped him back to the beach because he had a hard time swimming.  His surfboard was long gone.

Just a few hundred meters off.  So next time you lose your surfboard, try to calculate the wind and currents and you’ll have a better idea where to swim to your board.  And if you can’t swim back to the beach by yourself, you shouldn’t be surfing out there!    

This girl can swim for miles and miles and hours and hours.  Throw her in the middle of the sea and she will make it back to shore.  Next is to teach her how to hunt so she can survive forever.  Thank you Neal Miyake for the awesome morning shot.

Jeannie and Chizu under the rainbow….

Good morning 4am.
Ala Moana chest high and good.
Diamond Head shoulder high and good.
Light trade winds at 15mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!