i was watching Kaulana Apo surfing Bowls yesterday and i was impressed on how he hunted down waves.  it was very crowded but this kid was catching the most waves out there.  and he surfed it with lighting speed too.  good kid and great surfer.  look at his takeoffs.  notice how his chest and chin are forward pushing his board down the wave.  that’s how you should take off.

there were some heavy wipeouts yesterday.  i fell twice and it hurt a lot.  if you fall, you pay the price.  i’d rather jump over the falls on a 20′ Waimea Bay wave rather than falling like this.  you’re tumbling on the hard ocean surface while your razor sharp foil is flying out of control in the air.  and where it lands, nobody knows…

check out this cool canoe Punahou School just got.  if you go to Punahou, you should join this club.  i would…

i can’t believe how big Princess Leia is!  so cute and i can’t wait to meet her!

Water is beautiful…

Good morning 4am.
Ala Moana chest high and good.
Diamond Head shoulder high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 15mph.
Sunny and warm.
Bigger South swell tomorrow!
Going to surf.
Have a wonderful day!

after 5 hours towing yesterday, i came home and slept for 5 hours.  then i heard a cute voice outside of my house.  it was Mateus!  so we went out for a date.  there is a delicious gelato shop down the street which we love.  then i went back to sleep for 5 hours and woke up at 3am ready for this beautiful day!

i watch this kid and observe everything he does.  the whole time i’m laughing so hard!  then Mateus asks me why i’m laughing?  i tell him “because you’re the cutest kid in the world and i love you so much!”  he says “ok.”  haha.

this kid brings so much joy to my life.  i could have a long or tough day but right when i see Mateus, i’m full of happiness…

my legs and back were really sore when i woke up this morning.  but i knew staying in bed wouldn’t have made it any better.  so i went surfing.  all i needed was the ocean to fix my body…

Bowls is one of the most perfect wave in Hawaii, BUT it’s also really tricky to chose that perfect wave.  today was very tricky so local knowledge went a long way.  i only got one good wave this morning but it was well worth it.  it always is…