Chasing Japanese Typhoons: Part 2

see the TS?  that means Tropical Storm.  then the yellow color turning to orange, then to red.  red means “SUPER TYPHOON!”  i usually jumped on a flight to Japan right when i see the TS form.  we called it the typhoon egg.  meaning, “newborn.”

we use to chase those typhoons from Okinawa all the way to Sendai.  then when another “egg” forms, we would fly back to Okinawa and start the chase all over again.  sometimes this would go on for months!  so yeah, as a traveling surfer, i did my own laundry between swells.

this was one of the Super Typhoon days at this little island off Japan.  i can’t say where because i still want to be welcomed there.  haha.  i still remember how big and wild it was that day.  i rode a 7’6 gun and it still felt small.  it was 10-12′ Hawaiian scale.   no lifeguards and no hospital.  so yeah, it was risky business…

and when we scored good waves, we would always go out with the locals and eat the best food ever.  omg, i miss that the most!

and sometimes we would have a Japanese bbq.  this was my favorite.

surf good waves and eat good food.  that’s the surfers life…

during those trips, i would only hang out with cool people.  Kaori-chan was Japan’s Grand Champion a few years and i should have known better to challenger her to pool.  she beat me pretty bad.  after i lost, i blamed the beer.  then we played again and she beat me again.  haha…

May 28, 2022 Hawaii Surf Report

Swell clouds…

Good morning 3:50am.
Ala Moana overhead and good.
Diamond Head 4′ and challenging.
Trade winds at 15mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going BIG!
Have a wonderful day!

The Game

another amazing and beautiful day in Hawaii.  new South swell started to come up so i was so excited to get out early…

this is probably the best point right wave on the South Shore.  so when there’s a swell, there’s a lot of surfers.  if you want to catch waves, you have to play the game.  a game of being in the right spot at the right time.  a game of dropping in on the right people.  and a game of surfing faster than everybody else.  i love the game!

i just started teaching this girl how to surf.  a few more lessons and she’ll be surfing really good!  young, smart, and very determined!

i just got the call up from the boys for the next mission!  now i’m getting my equipment prepared for the huge swell coming!  i’m so excited that i won’t be able to sleep.  sleep or no sleep, i’ll be ready!