i’ve been surfing my whole life but never really paid attention to fins.  i just use to put them in my board and make it work.  but since i started foiling, i understand that every milliliter that’s underwater makes a huge difference.  and now that i’m in Bali, i’m learning by trying.  this guy that makes fins watches how i surf, and gives me advice on what fins i should use.  and it’s helping my surfing a whole lot!  

i never ever bought fins before because i would use what ever people gave me.  now i’ll spend what ever money it cost to get a set of good fins.  and this is a good set that was designed by scientists.  it’s the twin WOO L fins you can only get in Bali.  i love it!

Mike and I use to go spearfishing almost everyday and after we come in, we’d have a BBQ either at his house or mine.  we’d call up a few friends and cook all the seafood we caught.  if you ever came to one, you would probably remember.  good food and lots of drinks.  and of course, a crazy fun time!

i saw this glass bottle in the bathroom here.  i read it and some of those words are etched in my mind.  it’s wonderful so please read it…

omg, i was walking on the streets in Denpasar looking at the furniture shops when a guy on a bike sped pass me and yelled “Kirby!!!”  he did a U-turn and came back.  i said  “who are you???”  he took off his mask and helmet and said “brah, it’s BOL!”  we were in total shock because we haven’t seen or talked to each other in many many years!  and we meet on a random street in front of a furniture store?  that’s crazy!  

we sit down and start talking and talking.  catching up on years and years that just flew by.  i knew Bol since he was 13 years old so we have a solid connection.  he’s a Husband and a Father now so our talk is not about clubs and chicks anymore, it’s about parenting and surviving.  i’m so happy to see this kid grow up to become a solid adult.  if you don’t know who Bol is, try to google Made Adi Putra ‘Bol’  and you will see how famous this guy is.

Jetstar finally contacts me and says “sorry for the inconvenience but we found your board bag in Australia.”  i replied “please bring it to my hotel ASAP because i need it now!!!”   not even an hour later, a driver showed up with it.  

i don’t even look at the surfboards because i don’t need it anymore.  i just grabbed my foil stuff out, put it together, and went out for an amazing foil session.  omg, i’m so happy now.  i forgive everything and everyone!  haha…

i’ve always had a problem with twin fin surfboards.  they work really good frontside but a struggle backside.  almost every guy who rides a twin fin will agree.  so when i ordered a Mike Woo twin, i was a little skeptical taking it out to Uluwatu on my backside.  from my very first wave, it was magic!  lots of flow, easy to turn, and very fast.  this little 5’8 worked way better than i thought on those powerful waves.  look at the tail of the board flowing into the lip.  it looks beautiful and it feels beautiful.

later i tell Mike Woo that this is the first twin in my life that worked for me backside.  he told me “that’s exactly what Kelly Slater said.  Mike and Kelly refined this board so well that i just ordered another one.  haha.  i have no idea how i’m going to get it back to Hawaii but if there’s a will, there’s a way.  i live by the “One Life” model so if i want something, i’m going to get it.  simple.  no regrets in this mans life….