i really needed this trip.  i needed it for my mind, body, and soul.  and most importantly, for my surfing.  i got motivated to surf again so i wanted to fine tune my equipment, and my style.  Mike Woo’s been shaping for Kelly Slater so i grabbed one of his boards from his house.  it’s only a 5’6 with 26 liters so i was hesitant at first.  then when i caught my first wave, i couldn’t believe how good that board worked.  super easy to paddle, very fast, and lots of flow.  this one might be coming back to Hawaii with me.  haha…

i never thought that twin fins were this fun.  it changed my whole perspective on life.  i wake up here at 4am, exercise, and patiently wait for the sun to come up so i can surf.  it’s so exciting!!!

Bali is open, BUT nobody is here.  the hotels are empty and the beaches are deserted.  it feels like how it was 30 years ago and i love it!

i saw a wave breaking way outside in front of my hotel.  i don’t even know if that is a surf spot but i could see the potential for foiling.  so i paddled out into the emerald water and flew around like a bird.  nobody was out so i felt like i had the whole ocean to myself.  it was amazing!

then when i came in, i realized there was treasure on the empty white sand beach.

there were shells everywhere!  i haven’t seen this many shells in a long time.  i think the pandemic stopped the shell collectors from coming.  i scored!

omg, we’ve been eating some amazing dinners here.  Iron Chef Mike Woo has been cooking up the most amazing meals.  this one is shrimp scampi.  i’m allergic to shrimp but i ended up eating 10 pieces.  and no rash or sore stomach!  i think i’m cured!!!!

Fresh seafood market shopping.

Very beautiful and very interesting!