omg, the price of gas has gone up so much!  it almost cost me $30 to fill up my little Honda.  haha.  

it’s been over 2 years since i traveled so i got my board bags and suitcase out to see if it all still works.  i haven’t felt this happy to see my suitcase before.  haha.  the world is slowly opening up and i’m moving fast to start traveling again!

i can’t wait to snack on Happytos in Indonesia again.

and i can’t wait to get blue barrels with my friends again.  

Joshua just speared a Kumu and a Munu.  he gave me the Kumu which was already scaled and cleaned.  such a sweet kid!

The Morning Takeoff…

Good morning 4am.
North shore 4-6′ and good.
Ala Moana knee high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 25mph today.
Sun, showers, and rainbows.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

when ever you get a new board, you should never try it out on a junk day.  you should wait until the waves are good so there are no excuses.  so yes, i was waiting patiently for a day like today!

it paddled good, it felt good, i could pop up good, and it looked good.  so when i took off on my first wave, i had 100% confidence that it was going to work.  if i didn’t have confidence, there is no way i would even try to catch a hollow wave at Bowls like this.

right off the bottom turn, i could feel the board moving faster and a lot more responsive.  that is exactly what i wanted when i ordered it from Trinx!

i was flying so fast off the top that i had to stay low and keep calm.  it’s not easy when you’re flying fast like this.  somehow i made this and surprised myself.  i’m literally riding a waist high wave going the same speed as riding a 10′ wave.  that’s the feeling i love so much…

so if you asked me how today was.  i would say excellent.  i got good waves, i got a magic board, and i’m a FREE bird!