there are many of ways to get hurt in foiling and this one is the worst.  it’s called the “The Taco.”  so here i am on the North shore trying to surf instead of foil.  

i approach the white wash at full speed and try to smash it.  i forgot the North shore is 10x more powerful than town.

then it’s right here when i can feel me leaning forward which is the worst thing to do.  when you lean forward on the foil, you will fall forward and the foil will come straight up towards your face.  that’s why they call it a Taco!  

OMG!  my razor sharp wing just missed my head by inches.  that was one of the scariest moments in a while.  i actually went in after this and was so thankful i rode home in my car, and not in an ambulance.

A Bird in Paradise!

Good morning 4am.
North shore chest high this morning coming up fast to 4-6′ this afternoon. Clean conditions.
Ala Moana knee high and good.
Diamond Head waist high and good.
Light winds so nice morning conditions. Strong trade winds back tomorrow.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

i really enjoy coaching.  whether it’s their first time surfing or many times surfing, it’s all the same.  there are just so many things you can learn about the ocean.  it never gets boring…

i saw this photo of a SUP foiler running over a beginner surfer.  even though it looks like the foiler is 100% wrong, i don’t think so.  if you paddle out straight through the lineup whether you’re a beginner or a pro, you take the chance of getting in someones way.  and when you do, you’re wrong because that could have been preventable.  so that’s why i teach to all my students to “PADDLE AROUND!!!”

after surfing and hanging out with someone for 45 days straight everyday, you connect to each other in one way or another.   tears, laughs, smiles, and lots of memories.  it was a pleasure…

i couldn’t wait to come home and taste my fresh deer sashimi. the meat is so lean that i can eat a lot and won’t get full.  it taste like a mix of tuna, beef, and liver sashimi.  i’ll be eating this everyday for the next 2 weeks!