Always searching for the perfect wave…

Good morning 4:10am.
North shore chest high and good.
Ala Moana knee high and good.
Diamond Head waist high and bumpy.
Light trade winds at 10mph today.
Sunny and warm.
Going North.
Have a wonderful day!

whenever i leave my house, the clouds tell me what kind of day it will be.  these are trade wind clouds which we haven’t seen in a while.  this indicated it would be a little cooler, wetter, windier, and wilder.

i was talking to some of the boys on the beach before we paddled out.  this group ages from 60 to over 70 years old.  it’s so cool to see these guys and girls loving the ocean every single day of their lives.  i’m sure that’s keeping them healthy and happy!  they all inspire me!

Jeannie on the left and Dana on the right.  good to see the great vibe…

and yes, because of the trade winds, there were rainbows!

the 2 girls i’ve been surfing with push each other to be better and better.  they try new things everyday and succeed.  sometimes they laugh, sometimes they cry.  i don’t care how they feel, i just want them to get better and better.  and i can see it happening right in front of my eyes!

i just love this!  tomorrow you girls better be ready for some North Shore!  hope you’re sleeping well.  haha…

did you hear the news about this famous American WNBA professional basketball player?  she went to play basketball in Russia and got caught at the airport with marijuana in her bag.  it’s illegal there so she’s now in a Russian jail and will face up to 10 years in a Russian prison.  some American politicians are demanding for her to be released?  really?  i don’t like to get involved with topics like this but i always teach the kids that rules are rules.  and if you break the rules, there are consequences.  every country has their own set of rules and if you don’t like them, don’t go.  it’s only in America where you can shoot and kill a guy, get bailed out of jail, then be back in your comfortable home the next day.  i think that’s more crazy than anything.  anyway, it’s sad that this young basketball star has to be the example of the rules.  in other countries, smuggling drugs results in the death penalty.  i don’t know which one is better…