Ala Moana:  Fun and playful…

Good morning 4am.
North shore coming up today to 4-6′.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds back at 20mph.
Sun, clouds, and maybe some rainbows.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

the past 3 days i’ve been pretty much flying around trying to connect wave after wave.   this morning i caught my first wave and pumped into 10 more.  i would have caught more but my heart rate was almost at heart attack mode.  it was the best workout in a long time.

the sky has been so beautiful over Waikiki.

and so beautiful over Diamond Head too.

the waves were small but when you’re on a foil, a wave like this feels like double overhead.

when you can surf gracefully like this, you’re on a different level.  it just so beautiful to watch.  another one of my local friends complimented this girl today.  pretty happy!

i was looking into my album from 2017.  i wanted to share a few moments that i totally forgot about.  Mateus use to get gifts from my friends from Japan.  i use to make him close his eyes so he couldn’t see it.

then he would open his eyes and his little heart would be instantly full of joy.  he loved Anpanman so much!  

whenever i had a day off, i would call up the kids and take them diving.  sometimes we got lucky, and sometimes we got really lucky!  this is really lucky!

i would sashimi a lobster, then i would steam one, then i would make miso soup with the head.  when you see these crawling in the sea, then grab them, then cook them, it taste much much better!  i was in heaven that night…

i got this shot of Kelia Moniz surfing how i want my students to surf.  if you look good, her toes are going over the nose.  that way you can grip the board and have much more control.  so if you want to walk in control, you better get your toes over the nose.