Loyal to my Foil…

Good morning 4am.
North shore small today but new swell coming tonight.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and good.
Light winds today. Trade winds coming back tomorrow.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

another perfect morning that looked and felt like summer!  i still can’t believe the i didn’t miss a day in the ocean so far this year.  this is how i want to live the rest of my life…

the morning crew getting out before the rest of the island wakes up.  

i just love being in the ocean at this time.  

Clarence has been loving it too.  

watching this girl dancing on the ocean is so amazing.  we take turns riding waves and ride some together too.  it’s all smiles and laughter.  this is surfing…

i have so many home videos of Seth when he was a little kid.  i documented him for his entire life.  why?  because i knew this kid was going to be special someday.  

Seth’s very first trip was to Japan, then we went to Bali.  at about this time, nobody knew who this kid was.  we entered him into the Grom Fest at Keramas and the rest is history.  after this contest was done, the world slowly started to know who Seth Moniz was.

i was sitting on the beach watching every one of his heats until he won the whole contest.  he was surfing on a total different level.  after that contest, all the boys in Bali were asking who that kid was.  that’s when he became Internationally famous.   

then throughout the years, Seth understood that autograph sessions and interviews were part of the dream job he was pursuing.  i use to tell him to learn to love it.  i don’t think he understood how much joy this brought his fans back then, but now i’m sure he does.  

now Seth is currently #2 in the World!  i think there are so many of us living in this kids dreams.

because when Seth wins, we ALL win!