Outrigger Hawaii…

Good morning 4am.
North shore 2-4′ and good.
Ala Moana knee high and good.
Diamond Head waist high and fun.
Light winds so good morning conditions.
Sunny ands warm after a cool morning.
Going to foil.
Have a wonderful day!

i don’t remember the last time the Winter season was this consistently beautiful.  from October to March there are usually lots of days of South/West winds that make it very ugly and junky.  this year i don’t think we even had one ugly day in town?  it’s strange but i’m not complaining…

only a couple guys surfing today so we were pretty lucky.  here is local Clarence getting ready to drop in on a non-local guy.  haha.

and locals always win.

nice wave for the nice local!

it was absolutely perfect!  i just love the peaceful days like this!

today’s lesson was about calmness.  and this what i mean by calmness…

when ever i take someone surfing, i always keep an eye on him or her.  i know where they are the whole time and i can see everything no matter where i am in the ocean.  and if you know me well, i’m very protective of the people i surf with.  so if you drop in on them, i will drop in on you.  and if you wonder why i always drop in on you, it’s probably because your dropped in on one of my friends.  Tony Moniz taught me that one.  haha.  

yes, remember i’m always watching you no matter where i am.  and when i see you surf like this, i will scold you!  haha.

so happy to see Tomoka and Kimura-san looking so lovely in Japan.  i wish i was there!!!  miss you guys!  

Kimura-san and Atsuko-san took me to a very romantic place in Bali a few years ago.  they had their own room and i had my own room.   when i walked into my room after dinner and drinks and saw this, i got so mad that i threw the towels in the pool and ate the rose pedals.  that’s what loneliness does.  haha.   but even though i was by myself, it felt so romantic…