this morning was bigger and better than yesterday morning.  more surfers out but it doesn’t matter if you know how to drop in.  haha.

this is the first real South swell of the year.  nobody’s complaining.

this girl is a doctor and she is probably the nicest surfer girl you’ll ever meet.  always smiling, always saying hi, and very calm.  all my friends love this girl!

today we short boarded and it was so cool to see major improvements.  it’s amazing how fast this young girl learns…

i still can’t believe how good the waves have been this year.  it’s so cool that i spent every single day riding something.  and that’s not going to stop anytime soon….

the world is finally opening up and i’m looking forward to traveling a lot this year.  but traveling for me will be a lot different.  a lot longer, a lot slower, and a lot simpler.  i’ll never do the 1 or 2 day trips anymore, now it’s going to be 15 days or more.  i’m going to take my time and enjoy the moments for a little bit longer from now.

“LIVE LIFE AS IF YOU’LL DIE TOMORROW, DREAM AS IF YOU’LL LIVE FOREVER.”

i saw this sign in a shop in Bali a few years ago and i regret not buying it.  it’s been on my mind ever since because these are the words i live by.  so when i first seen it, i had chicken skin.  next month, i’m going to walk up and down that same side street in Legian and look for it.  and if i find it, it’s going on my wall…

Back in the Tako Day:  Gen vs. Joshua

Good morning 4:10am.
North shore chest high and perfect.
Ala Moana chest high and perfect.
Diamond Head shoulder high and perfect.
Perfect conditions everywhere!
No wind in the morning. Light onshore in the afternoon.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!