we decided to go out a little later this morning to avoid the stingy box jellyfish and the hungry dawn patrol surfers.

it was the right choice because the stingy box jellyfish went away and the hungry dawn patrol surfers went in.  i was following behind on my foil as i got the shot of my subject.

then we paddled back to Mayuki and went to Chinatown for noodle soup followed by ice cream.

almost 2 months will be over in 2022 and i haven’t missed a day in the sea.  i need a break but it’s hard when the waves are good, the water is warm, and the waves are perfect.  maybe tomorrow?  maybe not?  haha…

Bali Bagus Head Shot!

Good morning 4:15am.
North shore 6-8′ and good.
Ala Moana chest high and good.
Diamond Head shoulder high and good.
Light trade winds at 10mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

another beautiful morning in Hawaii.  a nice chest high swell at Ala Moana and no box jellyfish!

i spent the morning observing everyone.  there has been some really aggressive surfers coming out recently.  it actually gets kind of dangerous.  so it was a task keeping my eye on the 3 girls i was with.  i don’t want any of them getting hurt.

we took out 3 shortboards and switched with each other.  the challenge was to be able to ride all of them without having to adjust.  once the girls can figure it out, they’ll grow as better all around surfers.

it’s been a few months since this girl started surfing.  now she’s enjoying it and i could see a huge change in her confidence level.  the cool thing is that confidence will follower her wherever she goes both in and out of the water.   life will only get better for this young woman.

i was digging through my Bali album because i’m planning to go to Bali for my next trip.  i could eat this “nashi champur” dish every single day.  healthy and happy food!

and i can’t wait to hire a driver to drive me to anywhere i want to go.  surf, eat, massages, and seashells.  can’t wait!