Mother Nature or Bad Luck?

i decided to take a break from surfing today so i focused on cleaning Mayuki.  it was perfect conditions for bottom cleaning.

this has to be one of the hardest kind of cleaning i’ve ever done.

this is what the boat bottom looks like after a month in the ocean.  this is not good for fiberglass so it’s my job to clean it up.

it takes about 50 minutes so about 20 two minute breath holds.  it’s good for my mental and it’s the best exercise ever.   after i’m done, i feel like i just ran a marathon!

as i was finishing up, i looked at the ocean and it was irresistible. super clean with super fun waves.

this is my reward for a day of hard work.  FREEDOM!

everybody knew this was coming.  last night a house at Rocky Point got washed into the ocean.  you can call it global warming, you can call it Mother Nature, or you can call it bad luck.  i call it all of the above.  this is the first of many more to follow…

Never Impossible: The Kelia Moniz Foil Story

i was at the dining table the other night with Kelia and we had a very nice adult talk.  i was listening to her and i couldn’t believe how mature she is.  very smart, very clever, and very ambitious.  but most of all, very sweet.

looking back at our trip to Bali a few years ago, this was the highlight.  Kelia said she wanted to foil so we went foiling.

it was her very first time on a foil but she didn’t look nervous at all.  she was riding my board which was way too big for her, but she didn’t care.  that was 1000% confidence.  

i actually thought she was going to get hurt but on her first wave, she popped up very easily and kept on riding and riding.  then she said “take me to the outside and tow me into a wave!!!”  what?  really???

yes, really!  us boys were in the channel watching Kelia on her first foil wave on her first try at foiling.  if you ask any of my foiler friends, none of them will believe because it was impossible for us to do that.  well, Kelia Moniz doesn’t believe in the word impossible.  if you tell her she can’t do something, she will do it.  thanks to her 4 brothers pushing her to her limits her entire life…

February 28, 2022 Hawaii Surf Report

Yesterday mid-morning dream session…

Good morning 5am.
North shore 3-5′ and good.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and good.
Light winds so clean conditions everywhere.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!