long boarding is hard.  surfing is harder.  and being able to do both is the hardest.  in my opinion, if you can ride a shortboard on one wave, then ride a longboard on the next wave without having to adjust, you are on a mentally higher level than everybody else.  not too many surfers can successfully do it, but when you can, life in the ocean is 10x better.

this girl has been long boarding for the past 14 days straight.  she’s very connected to the waves and everything she rides.  so i tell her “ok, now ride my shortboard so i can see the level you’re at.”

she jumps on my shortboard, catches the next wave, and totally rips it!  then she didn’t want to give my shortboard back!  haha.  after a few waves, i gave her longboard back and she surfed it better than before.  i was super impressed!  if you can do this, each will complement each other.  then both gets easier and better.  you should try it someday…

Freedom Lives…

Good morning 4am.
HIGH SURF WARNING! North shore 15-18′ and dangerous.
Ala Moana waist high and good. Box Jellyfish Warning.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

wow, a very crowded morning at Bowls.  we had the right boards so it was not a problem to ride 30 waves each.

i saw one of my friends from Kewalo’s out at Bowls today.  he told me he saw a tiger shark at Kewalo’s so went in and  came Bowls.  i told him “hey, sharks can swim you know.”  haha.  it might be mental, but a shark can swim from Kewalo’s to Bowls in 2 minutes.  what’s the point right?

been seeing new faces everyday.  cool to see everybody enjoying the waves.

Back in the Day:  hanging out with Isaiah Moniz and Brownie.