Day 51 of 2022:  it was another beautiful day on the South Shore.  i spent 51 straight days in the ocean and i’m pretty sure that’s why i feel so clean and free!

another friend taking a nap on the beach today.

and the moon still shining in the morning.

these past 2 days have been super crowded and the waves kind of inconsistent.  so the plan has been to paddle out, catch as many waves as possible, and keep super busy.

today my A+ student caught 39 waves.  and if you add the 30 waves i caught today, we rode a total of 69 waves this morning!  i actually felt a little bad for riding so many waves but we only have one life right?  may as well enjoy it to the fullest.  i can’t wait for tomorrow!!!

i’ve been getting asked a lot about foiling recently.  i can see the interest of all my surfer friends that want to try.  the first question usually is:  is it hard?  i tell them “yes it’s hard.  it’s the hardest thing i ever tried in my life.  remember the first time you tried to do something and couldn’t?  multiply that frustration by a 100.  no matter how good of a surfer you are, foiling will put you back in diapers.”  the next question is:  is it dangerous?  “yes it’s dangerous.  almost every foiler will get hurt at some point.  if you can’t afford to get hurt, don’t foil.”

and last:  is foiling like surfing?  i tell them “when i ride a waist high wave, i’m flying so fast that my eyes are burning.  that same waist high wave on a foil is comparable to surfing a 10′ wave on a shortboard.  so every time i take off on a waist high day in town, i’m actually feel like i’m surfing 10′ North Shore.  it’s an incredible feeling and i’m saving a lot of gas.  haha.”

Everyday Dawn Patrol continues…

Good morning 4:15am.
North shore 3-5′ and good this morning.
Ala Moana knee high and clean.
Diamond Head waist high and good.
Light North/East winds at 10mph.
Sunny and cool day.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!