Evening session @ Waikiki…

Good morning 4am.
North shore 3-5′ coming up to 6-10′ this afternoon.
Pipeline Masters probably ON!
Ala Moana chest high and good.
Diamond Head shoulder high and good.
Light winds so nice morning conditions.
Sunny and very warm.
Going North.
Have a wonderful day!

yesterday, the water pipe down my street broke so i didn’t have water all day and all night.  it’s pretty inconvenient but also makes me realize how lucky we are to have running water.  i had to carry containers down and up the street to get water.  i can’t complain because people in some countries walk for miles and miles just to get water.

when i got to Bowls this morning, the waves looked super fun.  i had the choice to foil or surf.

thank goodness i chose my foil because i didn’t want to wait my turn with all these longboards out.  with my surfboard i would have to wait, but with my foil, i can catch the next wave that breaks.  that’s a huge advantage.

watched the amazing sunrise talking story with Jeannie.

this was my last wave.  i took off, pumped into 3 waves and rode it all the way to the beach.  it was a 3 minute ride and when i jumped off on the sand, i wasn’t even tired.  that means my body is getting stronger because the last time i did that, i couldn’t breathe.

then i came home and still no water.  Mateus was nice enough to help me fill up containers.  i didn’t have water for 2 days but we’re surviving.  Mateus will take a shower right here on the street tonight.  me too.  haha.

when Daisuke-san first came to Hawaii, he told me he wanted to foil.  so on this very first day, i asked him to show me how he surfs first.  i watched him, took notes, and Boot Camp started from there.

within a couple weeks, he was surfing like a pro.  perfect form and perfect rides.  then i told him “ok, let’s foil now.  but, expect to get frustrated, mad, and feel like you’re starting all over again.”  

oh, and i forgot to tell Daisuke-san that he will fly like superman.  haha.    

i watched a lot of foilers start from the beginning and some learned fast, some took years, and some quit.  Daisuke-san learned fast!  

check out the progress from day 1 to day 40.  Daisuke-san learned how to surf a shortboard, how to be calm, and how to fly.  

and on top of that, he’s body and mind transformed into a very strong man.  he lost 2″ off his waist, built new muscles all over his body, and is very calm.  thank you Daisuke-san!  you survived my Military Style 40 Day Boot Camp!   you did it!!!