H3O is Heavy Water…

Good morning 4:30am.
North shore 6-8′ and good.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Day 23 of 2022:  we decided to change the view so we surfed a different spot.  the swell was the biggest today so it was very challenging.  but we like challenge!

i saw some amazing rides this morning.  and we had some amazing rides too.

Daisuke-san liked the challenge.  it was very shallow so he kept on hitting his foil on the bottom.  but he didn’t care because he got his longest ride today.

this is foilers paradise.

after we get out of the ocean, we’re both totally content.  just enjoying each ride each day.  surfing is happiness…

when the North shore gets really big, the swell wraps all around the island into the South shore.  BUT, the ocean becomes much different.  the swell has a lot of energy, the swell has a weird direction, and the swell breaks at spots that usually never break.  so as i was surfing Kaiser’s yesterday, i saw surfers almost hitting the channel marker.  i thought that was pretty cool so i went over to get a photo.  here is my high school friend Neil heading straight for the Kaiser pole!

then right before he was about to hit it, he did a cool turn and sprayed the pole.  i’ve never seen anything like this in my life.

Neil and i were laughing after.  neither of us experienced something like this in our lives.  and we’ve been surfing for over 40 years.  its days like this i learn a lot more about the ocean.  it’s never predictable….