Top Gun…

Good morning 4:15am.
North shore 8-12′ and cleaning up.
Ala Moana chest high and good again.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds back at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Day 22 of 2022:  spent the early morning testing out a new board.  Daisuke-san rode his new 5’0 successfully today.  it looked really good!

i rode along the side trying to get a photo.  then i almost got my face cut in half!  omg!

i’ve been trying to change my surfing style a little.  and the more i change it, the easier surfing becomes.  it’s pretty cool how a few adjustments can make life so much easier…

gosh, i wonder how fast i’m going?  it must be fast because when i fall, it hurts…

this photo popped up on my iPhone today.  Asayama-san and i hanging out on Molokai.  drinking a beer, having appetizers, watching the waves, and enjoying the sunset.  it was a memorable evening…

i just watched this series called “The Future Diary” on Netflix.  it was a great story of a young couple falling in love.  they went to places like Hokkaido, Tokyo, Okinawa, Yokohama, and ended up in Yugawara.  all places i’ve been to before so i was super happy watching this drama.  i felt like i was back in Japan…

i was really impressed with the genuine kindness in both this guy and girl.  they were very Japanese and very humble.  it made me realize how such a bad guy i was when i was that age.  i was terrible!  haha.  

did you know the meaning of the “sunflower?”  supposedly seeing 1 sunflower means “Love at First Sight.”   wow!  so romanic!

seeing 3 sunflowers means “Confession of Love.”  

seeing 7 sunflowers means “A Secret Love.”

and seeing 99 means “Eternal Love.”  i had no idea what the sunflower symbolized and now i do…

the ending was very touching.  it’s cool to see people falling in love.  i can’t wait for sunflower season!  how many sunflowers will you see?