when we went to look at Pueana Point, the waves looked fun and it wasn’t as crowded as it usually is.  

this is such a cool place to hang out.  it’s like you’re in the jungle.

i saw a couple waves barrel!  maybe i’ll try to get barreled on my foil.  

when i see the young boys traveling with these surfboard coffins, i reminds me of the 20 years of doing that.  i’d stick 5 boards in the bag, lug it around on trains, planes, and automobiles.  sometimes it wouldn’t get on the flight, sometimes it got lost, and sometimes all your boards are smashed when you open it.  i’ve gotten stuff stolen, broken, and missing.  so i surely don’t miss those days of traveling as professional surfer…

A smile from Mother Nature!

Good morning 3:45am.
North shore 5′ from the North today. Good conditions.
Ala Moana knee high and good for longboard.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going North.
Have a wonderful day!

omg, i wasn’t expecting Haleiwa to be this good!  there weren’t too many surfers out and the waves kept on coming.  it was cold, but when you get a wave like this, things warm up fast.

pretty stoked to see The Eddie Aikau invitee Aaron Gold there. he was paddling around warming up for the big wave season.  the first thing he said was “how is Kimura-san?”  i told him “he’s probably going crazy in Wakayama because he can’t travel.  we all are going crazy!”  haha.

when i was leaving Haleiwa, the waves were getting smaller but it was still super fun.  only 4 surfers out on this beautiful Happy Haleiwa day!

went to the Billabong house to hang out with the boys.

and watched the action out at Pipeline/Backdoor/Off The Wall.  the boys were ripping!

when Seth first stayed at the Billabong House, the Kings were Andy Irons, Taj Burrow, and Joel Parkinson.  now, Seth Moniz is one of the Kings!  pretty cool…