Yesterday’s Surprise South Swell @ Secret.

Good morning 4:15am.
North shore waist to chest high and good.
Ala Moana waist to chest high and clean.
Diamond Head shoulder high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 15mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

another day of searching for the perfect wave, and for clean water.  this was Bowls in the morning and even though the waves were perfect, you wouldn’t want to surf in that rubbish.

compared to yesterday, the debris went down a little.

the line of debris is going right into the lineup at Bowls.  it was pretty cool to see how the ocean is trying to clean itself up.  the currents, winds, and waves all play a factor on how this will go away.

i drove around looking for clean water.  this is one of the premier spots on the South shore and there was only 1 local surfer out.  i won’t say where because i’m going there again tomorrow and i don’t want to see anyone out.  haha.  2 days ago Bowls had 2 guys out, yesterday nobody at Big rights, and today 1 guy here.  this has been the best 3 days of the year for me on the South shore.  i love December!

on the way in, i was dodging big logs.  imagine your surfboard hitting one of these?  ouch!

if i were you, i’d stay far away from the Ala Wai.  yuck…

the tide at Big Rights was super high in the morning.  but as the tide dropped throughout the day, the barrels started to open up.

super stoked to see Kyle Nakamoto paddle out.  he caught a wave at Big Rights and then headed to Concessions.  smart move because Concessions was the best i’ve ever seen it.  one of the old timers that surfed out there for 40 years said “it doesn’t get any better than this.”  

Kyle on the backside power snap!  there was only 4 local surfers out at Concessions all morning long.  i’m pretty sure the other 50 local surfers were still in bed watching Netflix.  nobody expected the water to be clean and the waves to be this good.  nobody…

i’m so happy i can jump on a foil board one wave, then jump on my shortboard on the next wave and surf better than i ever did.  it took 95% mental, and 5% equipment adjustments to do so.  now i feel stronger than i ever did in my life!