this photo was taken in Miyazaki in 1990 during the World Amateur Championships.  (from left to right) Ben Aipa, Kimo Gasper, Me, Ross Williams, and Shaun Kawamoto.  Ben was our coach and it was on this trip that my life changed.  to make a long story short, i got into a dispute with our manager, i went to Tokyo to vent, i met wonderful people, and i decided then that i was going to move to Japan.  that’s why i tell everybody that “everything happens for a reason.”   if i didn’t have a dispute with our manager, i wouldn’t have spent a week in Tokyo, and i wouldn’t be where i am today.   i am very thankful for Ben because he supported my decision to go to Tokyo.  he knew i was super mad and i was capable of doing crazy things during that angry time.  so that turned out to be the greatest decision of my life…

Midori + Sea…

Good morning 3:45am.
North shore 6-8′ and onshore. 12-15′ later today.
Ala Moana knee high and super high tide.
Diamond Head waist high and good.
North/West winds and very clean in town for now.
Very cool day.
Going to look for waves.
Have a wonderful day!

the waves haven’t been good recently so it’s been really hard to score.  i’ve been looking around everyday all day long and when i see something good, i’m there.  this day it was just Mayuki and me.  it’s days like this i live for…

and when i pulled up to Bowls this morning, it was onshore and raining hard!  half the surfers in the parking lot left but i knew the winds would turn offshore and the sun will come out.  so we paddled out and waited.  and when it did, it was beautiful!  the rights and lefts were perfect!  i had my longboard but i wish i had my shortboard!  sorry if you missed it but tomorrow isn’t going to be like this…

about 70 years ago, my Grandparents taught my Mom how to play hanafuda.  then 40 years ago my Mom taught us.  now my Mom is teaching Mateus how to play.  and Mateus is really good!!!