i was searching for some photos of Ben Aipa because i wanted to elaborate to my students on his coaching.  Ben taught me so many things in and out of the water.  some i forgot, and some stuck in my mind forever.  one thing he constantly taught me was to look at the whole ocean, and not just the wave in front of me.  so when i found this quote

“Don’t focus on what’s right in front of you…  Watch the horizon and be prepared for what happens next.”

even till today, i apply his teachings to my life both in and out of the ocean.    

Ben Aipa leading by example.  this is perfect form.  speed, power, and flow.  this is where you want your eyes, this is where you want your arms, and this is where you want your rails.  thanks you again Coach Ben for all the wisdom.  it helps me in life, and i can see it helping my students in life too…

Colorful Happy Haleiwa…

Good morning 5:30am.
North shore 3-5′ and good. Haleiwa Challenger Off!
Ala Moana waist high. Bigger than yesterday.
Diamond Head chest high and fun.
Light winds so clean morning conditions.
Sun, clouds, and showers.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

i went to the North shore and got there before the sun came up.  i wanted to shortboard but it was too small.  i was driving around Haleiwa and passed by Pua’ena Point.  nobody was out so i was waiting for anything to break.

right when i saw this wave break, i ran back to my truck and grabbed my foil.  i ended up catching 4 waves and pumped all around so it turned out to be 10 waves.  a monk seal swam right up to me so today turned out to be a wonderful morning.

when i came in, the parking lot started to get crowded.  i saw 4 foilers and 10 long boarders getting ready to paddle out.  perfect timing!

Seth texted me this morning and said the contest is probably on.  so i rushed to Haleiwa at 8am because he’s in the first heat of the day.  omg, it was flat!!!

they need 3 more days to run the event and the good news is we’re getting a big swell this weekend.  but the bad news is the winds and swell direction won’t be good.  but this is Hawaii and anything can change.  i already know where i’m going to surf this weekend, and it’s not going to be on the North shore…