My Secret Weapon

ok, we are in the Winter months in Hawaii so the weather and conditions will change by the day.  i’m up at 3am watching the buoys, winds, weather, and waves.  so by sunrise, i’m going to place myself in the right spot.  i don’t care if it’s knee high or 20′, i’m going to enjoy every moment to the fullest…

and now my secret spots are going to be visited a lot.  it takes time and effort, but when you can surf a spot all to yourself, it’s well worth it.  

i just picked up my new secret weapon.  it’s a Vesso shaped by Gen Asano.  it looks super good!

the Black Jack model is for your everyday surfing.  it works on anything.  i’ll let you know how it works!

December 1, 2021 Hawaii Surf Report

Walking on Water…

Good morning 4am.
North shore chest high and getting bigger. Haleiwa Challenger probably off.
Ala Moana knee high and clean.
Diamond Head waist high and bumpy.
Trade winds down to 15mph.
Sun, clouds, showers, and rainbows.
Going North.
Have a wonderful day!

The Experience Wins

i really wanted to try out a new foil so i went searching for the perfect foil wave.  and yes, i found it!  2 hours of perfection!

this is the new Takuma 1095 wing.  it’s fast and can glide forever.  i don’t even need a wave to ride this wing.  i felt like i was cheating.  haha.

i went to fill up gas and get Mayuki ready for the next boat trip.     $500 later, the tanks were full.  gas is very expensive, but the experience is priceless.  so experience always wins…

i passed by Kewalo’s and it looked super fun to surf.   it seems like a small South swell is trying to build.  it was way bigger than the past few days…