30 years ago, there was no internet and no cel phones. the only way to get your surf forecast was from experienced surfers. Tokura-san use to chase typhoon swells in Japan forever so he knew when and where will be good. so i’d be here in Hawaii and get a phone call. he said “Kirby, typhoons coming in 5 days, get a ticket, see you soon.” i’d call my travel agent, get the next flight to Japan, and Tokura-san would pick me up from the airport. then we’d drive and drive for hours. sometimes driving for 14 hours straight into the path of super typhoons. we would surf the swell before the typhoon hits, then take cover indoors until the 100mph winds stop and the typhoon passes. then we’d go straight back out and get the leftover back swells. this was the First Swell, First Session of Typhoon 1 on the island of Shikoku. every wave would be perfect, and every wave would barrel. then when the typhoon would pass, we’d look for and start chasing Typhoon 2. that went on for over 20 wonderful years. want to thank Tokura-san for the amazing journeys…
photo by Yoshiro Nakayama
