The Blue Horizon…

Good morning 3:30am.
Ala Moana waist to chest high sets and perfect. Bigger than yesterday.
Diamond Head shoulder high and good.
North shore shoulder high and perfect.
Light winds so perfect conditions this morning.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

went out this morning to the North shore.  that was 6 out of the past 7 days.  i wasn’t expecting anything today but it turned out to be the best day i’ve ever foiled!  the waves were super good, and the conditions were absolutely perfect!   i guess no expectations is always the way to go!

when you fall, you hit hard.  all you see is bubbles for the first 5′ underwater.  it’s like being in a washing machine with a lot of soap.

then the power of the wave pushes you deeper and it starts to get really clear.  this is were i feel the most comfortable.  i’m actually looking for fish.  haha.

then when you come up, there is a thick layer of foam the wave left behind.  you better not take your breath here or you will choke.  so the most important thing is to keep calm and go with the flow.  simply said, but not that easy to do.  practice makes perfect…

check out this photo of the boys when they were super young.  Shun, Kaniala, Noah, and Seth.  it’s pretty cool watching them grow up into pretty famous surfers.

John Shimooka was a really good friend of mine.  we use to train every morning in the gym up at Kamehameha School, then go surf somewhere after.  then we would golf, run, or just hang out everyday.  he was the kind of guy that would be there for you no matter what.  and he would make you laugh until you cried.  i miss this guy.

super happy to see Nao-san facing her fears.  pretty cool stuff!

one of the most fascinating dives i’ve ever done was in Palau.  we jumped in this fresh water lake and swam with thousands of jellyfish.  it was the coolest thing ever!