Ocean RAPE

right before i slept last night, i checked out the forecast for the North shore.  OMG, 20-25′???  after that, i couldn’t sleep.  haha.

went out for another day of training this morning.  the only way to get better at this sport is time in the water.  you can’t learn this stuff on youtube.  haha. 

i’m so happy to see the DNLR police finally giving tickets to illegal night divers.  they caught 12 illegal divers on Oahu just in one night.  this is rape!  i wish the could patrol every night because if this doesn’t stop, there will be no fish for the next generation.

International Lifetime Friends

this is Reo Inaba when he was a little kid from Japan coming to surf the North Shore.  he stayed at Wade Tokoro’s house and has been riding his boards forever.  he’s a really quiet and super respectful kid that i always liked.  Reo became good friends with the Moniz kids throughout the years and it was super cool to see.  they hang out in Hawaii, Japan, and travel the world like brothers.  

this was back in February of this year when we went on an outer island dive trip.  i remember telling Joshua that i will only take 3 of them.  then Joshua called me last minute and asked if Reo could come too.  of course i said yes just because it was Reo.  anyway, i watched the kids dive together and observed the precious bond they shared.  it was friendly, competitive, and very respectful.

if you haven’t heard yet, it was Reo that was the first surfer to save Joshua when he got hurt in Portugal.  i get pretty emotional thinking about the whole thing.  actually, i just got speechless and am actually tearing up right now.  words can’t express how thankful i am for Reo.  i’m going to give that kid a big hug when i see him.  he saved my nephews life and he’ll be my hero forever…

October 25, 2021 Hawaii Surf Report

Only Good Times…

Good morning 3:15am.
North shoulder high and coming up fast to 6′ today.
Ala Moana waist high and good for longboard.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!