Diamond Head was absolutely beautiful yesterday.  i was watching the waves for a while and even though i just surfed 3 hours in the morning, i almost went out for my lunch break.  good thing i waited because we ended up surfing pretty long in the afternoon.  basically, the ocean was irresistible…

i haven’t eaten oxtail soup at Kam Bowl in over 10 years.  so once i took my first taste, all the years of memories came back in a flash.  i’m not being biased, but this oxtail soup is the best on the island.  i’m going back again very soon…

the talk of the surf community out at Bowls was about the pod of dolphins that came through the lineup.  everybody that was out saw nature at its best.  we were on the boat so we got to see it from this angle.  so beautiful!!!

Neal Miyake was in the water and this was his angle.  so amazing!

if you really want to go surfing, you will find a way.  when i saw these guys riding though Waikiki, i thought i was in Bali.  haha…

Life in a Bikini…

Good morning 3:30am.
Ala Moana waist with chest high sets and perfect.
Diamond Head chest high and good.
Light winds so perfect morning conditions.
Sunny and warm.
Going to surf.
Have a wonderful day!

omg, i had a dream last night that the waves were going to be super perfect this morning.  so we got up early and headed to the sea.  and guess what?  it was better than super perfect!  we surfed waves like this for 3 hours this morning!!!

the boys were out ripping.  Bruce throwing big spray!

look at these long delicious waves!

Jeannie Chesser is the Queen of Bowls.

then went to Diamond Head for 2.5 more hours of fun in the sun!  our faces got really sunburnt.  since this pandemic, i don’t even care what i look like anymore.  all i care about is how i feel.  and i’m feeling this kind of happiness that i never felt before.  and it feels great!  going to sleep and dream about tomorrow…