i saw some guys working on this beautiful boat.  it’s called the School Bus and i love it!!!  that’s a great idea!

i was out at Bowls yesterday afternoon and saw everybody dropping in on each other.  dropping in means “mae nori” in Japanese.  every situation is different but in this one, the surfer on the left has priority.  you can see the surfer on the right pulling back to give way.  that’s what you’re supposed to do.  got it?

the best is when you have the wave to yourself.  then you can enjoy the ride without worrying about banging someone in front of you, or getting run over by someone in back of you.  got it?

Always Waiting for the Perfect Wave…

Good morning 4am.
Ala Moana waist high and clean. Coming up later today.
Diamond Head chest high and fun.
Trade winds at 15mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

spent another early morning out in the ocean.  i just love this time of day!  so colorful and so cool!

the rights were small, but perfect for long boarding.  and foiling!  so yeah, i had my foil and had a great time.

then we went back out in the afternoon and surfed the lefts.  i think i saw a few good indicators of the new swell coming.

good too see my friend Alex and his kid riding waves for so long.

this is how it starts.  this is how watermen are born.

by the end of the day, i was totally sunburnt and my eyes were stinging red.  i didn’t know if my camera was focused or not because this is what my eyes see in the afternoon sun.  better go sleep because tomorrow will be the same.  from a happy sunburnt surfer!