Small Wave Lovers

yippie!  paddled out early morning in the dark.  just loving the view of the Honolulu City Lights!!!

there were still some leftovers from the past swell.

Troy on a set.

Carter on another set.

my friend asked me “why is Bowls so empty on the big days and so crowded on the small days?”  i told her “because a lot of the surfers out here are small wave lovers.  when it gets big, they go to work or get sick all of a sudden.”  haha…

went to foil somewhere else in the afternoon and it was freaking amazing!  good to be back flying so high!

The Ben Aipa Legacy

Ben Aipa was a very big part of my life.  he was a surf coach back in the 1980’s when surf coaches never existed.  so yeah, you can call him the first surf coach ever.  Ben spent countless hours of his valuable time coaching me for 3 years.  he coached me at Kewalo’s, Diamond Head, North shore, Sandy Beach, and even in Japan.  after we trained, i would go to his house and we would look over the video.  he taught me about competition, about the ocean, about surfboards, and about winning.  there are so many wonderful memories throughout three decades of knowing him.  and the one thing Ben taught me that i will never forget was to  “fake it.”  i’ll explain what that means later.

thousands of people around the world will surely miss Ben.  so saying goodbye was pretty emotional for everyone.  

my friend Kevin Kamakura took this photo of me riding one of Ben’s “stinger” surfboards back in 1988.  Ben hung this on his shaping room door for many years.  he told me “that’s how i want you to push my board on every turn you do.”  that inspired me a lot and every time i did a turn like this, i would do it for Ben Aipa…

August 21, 2021 Hawaii Surf Report

Friday afternoon delight!!!

Good morning 3:30am.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!