when we paddled out to Bowls, there were 30 really good surfers out.  i paddled out same time with Seth so i was watching how he positioned himself for a wave.  then when the very first set came, guess who was in the perfect position?  yes, Seth was in the perfect place to catch one of the biggest waves at Bowls ever!  

then he came right on my side and did his signature backside turn.  i’ve been shooting Seth ever since he was 7 years old so we still know how to connect.  i wait in the perfect place to get the shot, and he does the rest of the work.  good boy Seth!  

then i get the happy smile on the paddle back out.  between surfing and shooting, i love it equally!  another priceless family moment…

Surf and Shoot:  My daily routine…

Good morning 4am.
Ala Moana chest high and good.
Diamond Head head high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to surf.
Have a wonderful day!

a lot of surfers been asking me about my Big Right dream session.  my answer is:  it was 6′ solid with 8′ sets.  only me out for 45 minutes loving my life.  the current was super strong, the waves were super powerful, and it was very challenging.  but when you catch a wave, you’re making history because it was the biggest day in over 40 years.  it’s almost surreal…

i have a lot of time on my hands so i like to use my hands.  my Mom needed her bathroom painted so that was no problem.

i started off caulking and taping up.

now it looks brand new.  i was amazed on how good it came out.  i was kind of proud of myself.  haha…

one girl i’m very proud of is Seira-chan.  she’s a very good surfer, a very good girl, and a very good champion.  i can’t believe she just turned 22 years old.  Happy Birthday Seira-chan!