i’m not a baseball fan at all.  BUT, i’ve been watching Shohei Ohtani recently.  yesterdays game, he was pitching so perfectly, until the other team hit a home run off him.  i was super impressed on his expression, which was nothing.  he didn’t get mad or frustrated.  he just took a breath and was calm as nothing happened.  

then his next bat up, i watched closely because i wanted to see how he was going to respond.

then BANG!  he hit a home run!!!  omg, i was screaming!!!  

he looked up and knew it was long gone.  look how cool he is!

what amazes me more than Shohei breaking records and making history is his composure.  he’s almost emotionless.  so when i pull into a 20′ barrel own my foil, i’m going to have a facial expression like this.  it’s basically saying “i knew it was coming.”  

now i’m a baseball fan of this amazing professional athlete.  next time you watch him,  look at his confidence, and look at his emotions.  that’s my dream to be like that confident and cool someday…

Welcome to the circus @ Big Bowls!!!

Good morning 4am.
Ala Moana still head high with overhead sets and perfect.
Diamond Head overhead and getting bumpy.
Trade winds back at 20mph today.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

after paddling out once to Bowls, and twice to Big Rights yesterday, i felt lazy today.  i almost didn’t have enough energy to surf but i got some help from Mayuki.  once i leave the harbor, my heart starts beating and i’m rejuvenated!

i passed Bowls and it was perfect again.  the only thing i don’t like about surfing Bowls when it’s big is the water gets super stinky and dirty.  the big waves stirs up the sediment from the bottom of the canal.  and i don’t want that in my body.  yuck…

i passed by Big Rights and i just couldn’t resist.  perfect 3-5′ and lots of my good friends out.  talking story, exchanging barrels, and just having a peaceful time.

i told myself that i would just catch 3 waves and will be done.  i ended up catching 20 waves and surfed for almost 4 hours.  i feel excited like i just started to surf again.  haha.

i take 2 boards when the waves get big just in case one breaks.  luckily i didn’t break a board on this strong historic swell.

got some photos from yesterday at Bowls.  some guys were calling it 10′ but i’d say it was more like 8′ on my scale.  that’s still double overhead.  this swell will be talked about for many years to come…