Monday:  i went out to foil with the North Shore boys.  then after a few waves, i sat on the inside and let the boys fly by me.  this is the view i had.  isn’t it so amazing?  

Tuesday:  i went to Big Rights and i was alone for a while.  then a guy paddled out and it was just the 2 of us.  look how glassy the water surface was.  can you imagine 6′ barrels with these conditions?  i wouldn’t believe it either…

Wednesday:  that’s today so wait until tonight to see what i got with my lens.  i’m really liking to shoot photos again because i love the results…

Saying goodbye to my surf coach, shaper, friend, and legend:  Ben Aipa

Good morning 4:10am.
South swell coming down, but still good!
Ala Moana overhead high and perfect.
Diamond Head 5′ and perfect.
Light winds so clean conditions. Trade winds coming back later.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

i surfed 3 rounds with a total water time of 7 hours today.  from dawn to dusk.  today’s swell was the biggest i’ve probably ever experienced.  this is the Bowls channel where the boats come in and out.  today, there was no channel!

i saw so many boats trying to get out but had to do a u-turn because it was way too dangerous.

if you’re a sailboat trying to come in or go out, your boat will get smashed and end up on the rocks.  it was consistently closing out the channel today.  i never saw it like this before…

i paddled out to Big Rights this morning.  there were 5 guys out until a freak set washed in 3 of them.  then the next freak set must have been solid 8 feet and that one washed in the other 2 guys.  so it was only me for 40 minutes at the biggest Big Rights i’ve ever surfed.  i was in paradise!!!  i got barreled and was screaming all to myself.  the best session i’ve ever had in my 35 years surfing out there.  so stoked!  went back this evening for more barrels but too tired to talk about it.  i want to go to sleep because tomorrow will be super good too!  goodnight from a super happy sunburnt surfer…