if you told me 3 years ago that we’d be towing into huge waves on the foil, i wouldn’t have believed you.  i would have though you’re crazy to even think about it.  but now, it’s very real, and it’s very crazy…

good to see Peter King out in the lineup.  this guy can make me laugh all day long.  i love talking story with him…

i’ve been doing a lot of gardening since this pandemic.  coming home everyday and watering my plants is my therapy.  it’s a good way to end the day in a very peaceful environment…

this rosemary plant started off with a branch i stuck the ground.  now it’s growing like a tree!  nature is wonderful!

The Day:  Outer Reef Blue Hawaii…

Good morning 3:30am.
High surf advisory for South Shores.
Ala Moana 5-6′ and perfect.
Diamond Head 6′ and good.
Light winds so perfect morning conditions.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

i got the call last night about this mornings super session.  i knew it was going to be big and i knew all the top watermen will be there too.  so i got up at 2am and made sure i wasn’t late.  i showed up 30 minutes earlier than i was supposed to, but everybody was there already.  i guess i’m not the only one super excited!

when we got out, i couldn’t believe how good it was.  big and clean mountains.  i spent a lot of time driving the ski today because i’m practicing for this winter.  i love the speed! 

i’m driving the ski, shooting photos, foiling, and dodging jet skis and foilers.  it was super wild out there but when you’re part of a team of the most experienced watermen on the island, it actually feels safe.

Kai Lenny came out so i was watching carefully how he approached the waves.  he’s the master foiler who everybody is chasing…

you have to be very focused, but at the same time, very comfortable, and very very confident.  i’m borrowing my friends boards, foils, skis, and everything else so i have to connect from the very first second i’m in the water.  that’s what makes it way more interesting for me.  once i get my own foil, board, and ski, i’ll be foiling like Kai Lenny.  haha.  but for now, i’m very happy at where i’m at…