i want to congratulate Seth Moniz for re-qualifying for the 2022 World Surf League season.  this year was very challenging due to the covid restrictions, but everything fell into place.  Seth preformed well enough to make the Top 20 of the World.  what will happen or will the tour happen next year is unpredictable.  we just have to take it day by and and adjust.  i’m just glad he’s coming home today and i can’t wait to see him…

Fun in the morning sun…

Good morning 3:30am.
South shore coming up fast. Be careful.
Ala Moana head high and perfect. Double overhead by this afternoon.
Diamond Head overhead and good.
Light winds so nice morning conditions.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

woke up this morning and went to surf the forerunners of the next giant swell.  the waves were very inconsistent, but you can tell the ocean was waking up.  i think tomorrow will be big, and Tuesday will be bigger.  so expect this swell to last for the next 10 days!  so happy!!!

i wasn’t the only one waiting for the swell.  the whole island was.  the swell direction is going to be good, and so is the winds.  expect epic sessions all around Oahu, including the North swell too!

i haven’t spoken much Japanese since March of 2020.  from speaking it everyday, to speaking it once in a 100 days.  i can tell i’m losing my 2nd language so i started watching Japanese movies.  this is how i learned Japanese in the first place so why not start off trying to speak like a Samurai!  haha.  this movie Rurouni Kenshin “The Beginning” is really good!  i love the action and acting.  i actually thought the main character was a woman at first.  that’s until i saw his samurai skills.  so cool!!!  anyway, i actually learned some new Japanese words.  can’t wait to use it!!!