did you watch the Olympics and see the end of the triathlon race?  a few competitors passed out because of the heat.  i use to think it wasn’t that hot in Tokyo until i experienced it for myself.  i almost passed out walking 5 minutes to the train station.  i can’t explain how hot it gets…

it’s not that hot in Hawaii because we have the ocean surrounding us.  i got a call this afternoon from my friend on the North shore.  he asked me if i wanted to go to explore a new spot.  i said “sure!”  i towed him into some amazing waves!

then he towed me into some amazing waves too.  we caught it outside in the blue water and foiled it to the beach for 2 minutes long.  it was the first time i foiled here.  i felt like i was on some exotic island off Indonesia.

by the end of each wave, my legs were totally burnt.  if i wasn’t in the ocean, i’d probably faint!  i drove my truck for an hour, then the jetski for an hour just to get here.  it was only us 2 and i would have taken a 12 hour flight just for this session!  still lots of exploring of Hawaii to catch up on…

every spot in Hawaii has “old timers.”  these guys are in their upper 60’s to late 70’s and are having the best time of their lives.  i can see them smiling, i can hear them laughing, and i can tell they’re loving life to the fullest.  i sit in the inside of these guys and just watch them thinking to myself “i hope i’m doing this at that age.”  

they tease each other, they drop in on each other, and they are very competitive with each other.  old timers playing in the ocean like little kids…

here’s the old timers rule:  when you see these guys paddle for a wave, don’t even try to go.  it’s just showing respect which is very important.  sometimes i see younger surfers trying to drop in and i tell them “brah, don’t do that again!”   but overall, most surfers understand that rule…

so happy to see Tokura-san, Takami-san, Toda-san, and Kamio hanging out at one of my favorite secrets spots in the world.  miss you guys!  

Toda-san lost so much weight and it’s showing in his surfing.  i’m super happy for him!  i can’t wait to surf with you guys!

Cross step@Waikiki…

Good morning 5am.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds backing down to 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!