A Peaceful Lunch…

Good morning 4am.
South shore down today but up again on Monday.
Ala Moana chest to shoulder high and good.
Diamond Head overhead and bumpy.
Trade winds at 25mph.
Sun, clouds, and huge rainbows.
Going to surf.
Have a wonderful day!

everybody thought today was going to be smaller than yesterday.  nope!  it was way bigger than yesterday and since it was unexpected, Bowls hardly had anyone out.  i’d say 1/3 of the crowd compared to yesterday.  here is Troy on a good one!  

when Bowls gets super big, you have to choose the right one.  and sometimes the right one isn’t necessarily the biggest one.  here you have some local knowledge…

the medium ones that break on the inside reef have better form.  so as for Bowls, bigger isn’t alway better.

so stoked to see the young Tokoro generation in the lineup.  the earlier, the better…

super good respectful kids are always welcome to any lineup…

tomorrow will still have good sized waves.  and Monday is the biggest swell so far this Summer.  so we’ll have 8 more days of solid surf!  i put my foil away and i’m going to chase the barrels!!!

nice wave Uncle Bruce!!!