Live Life…

paddled out this morning in the pitch dark again.  i just love the moment of touching water and paddling out right into the full moon.

since Trinx has been making my boards, i’ve already ordered 5 of them.  first i test it out, then we go back into the shaping room and make minor adjustments.  and when i think it’s impossible to make a better one, he makes me a better one.   i’m flying faster than ever!

Matsu just got his new one too and he loves it!  so if you see this green board flying around Japan, that’s Matsu!

omg, sad news about the luxury condominium in Florida that collapsed at 2am in the morning.  it’s crazy because you’re supposed to be safe in your own bed, then something like this happens.  i hope they find more people alive.  it makes me really think about how precious life is.  it could end in a second even when you feel the safest.  so sad…

2 Toys and 3 Smiles

i was surfing the other morning when this local surfer girl paddled back out after catching a wave and said “wow, nothing today can ever be better than this.”  i told her “and it’s not even 6am yet.”  we laughed.  that’s the truth…

these are my 2 new toys.  red is for tow in foiling.  heavier, thinner, and inserts for foot straps.  blue is for paddle in foiling.  lighter, thicker, and wider.  both working super good so far!  

after a long day, coming home to these smiley faces makes me happy.  i just love watching them grow…

June 25, 2021 Hawaii Surf Report

Always Searching for the Perfect Wave…

Good morning 3am.
Ala Moana chest high and perfect.
Diamond Head head high and good.
Light winds so nice morning conditions.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!