it’s been an amazing pandemic if you’re a dolphin.  no tourists chasing them all day long.  they just seem so happier now.  cool…

i call this the fake cutback.  all i need is any close out wave and i can do this all day long.  just take off, go to the bottom with as much speed as possible, then when you’re at full speed, pretend you’re doing a cutback.  it’s a quick short mini cutback and just by doing this, i can feel how my surfboard works.  then when the real perfect wave comes, cutting back is too easy.  try it!

Blue Hawaii…

Good morning 4am.
Ala Moana waist high and perfect.
Diamond Head chest high and good.
Very low tide morning, very high tide afternoon.
Light trade winds at 10mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

foiled a very long session this morning at Diamond Head and went to Kewalo’s for round 2.  i was watching the waves for a while and then the sun overheated my body.  it’s been so hot in the afternoons!!!

this bodyboarder riding his foil is pretty cool.  he’s the only one i saw doing it but i’m sure more will follow…

the cost of living in Hawaii is so high so a lot of people in live in their car.  this guy is very smart…

he has a garden on his roof!  that’s the smartest thing ever!

another smart couple is Toda-san and Takami-san.  congratulations on your new toy!  i can’t wait to drive with you guys around Japan!  please tell your government to let us in to Japan!!!