i had an amazing time in the ocean today.  only a couple guys out and the waves were super fun.  it’s days like these i love the most.  South swell expected tomorrow so this same spot will have 50 guys out for sure.  should be interesting!

i saw a turtle swimming directly under me.  i wish i could ride on its back like Urashima Taro but i’ll go to jail if i do that in Hawaii.

the tourists are back in full swing!  every tourist boat i see is overloaded!  

and this fishing boat should be illegal.  taking out 25 tourists at a time with 25 fishing lines in the ocean.  catching every single fish around, leaving toxic fishing lead on the bottom of the ocean, and leaving fishing lines tangled in the reef.  this is called “ocean rape!”  now you know why there’s no fish in Hawaii anymore…

my new foil board is getting glassed today.  can’t wait!

as i was heading home, Gen texted me and said my new board is ready!  so i went to go pick it up because there’s going to be waves all week!

Carter’s new board was ready too so we met up at Gen’s house.  i just got home, waxed it up, and i’m ready for anything tomorrow.  it’s past my bedtime but i’m so excited that i can’t sleep!

when i travel, surfing and diving is my main focus.  but in between that, i focus is connecting to the locals.  i would take my camera and paddle to secluded islands by myself.  some of these islands are so secluded that they probably never seen any foreigners before.  it’s scary at first because my photographer friend John Callahan once told me a story about him going to a secluded island in the Andaman Islands.  and when was about to arrive by dingy, the locals started shooting arrows at them.  that’s always in my mind when approaching the unknown.  but once i see the smiles, i’m happy.  

i like to roam around, hide in the bushes, and take natural photos like this.  i must look like the paparazzi to them.  haha…

but it’s always the kids that is easiest to connect to.  they are happy, they are curious, and they are so pure.  i don’t understand their language, they don’t understand mine, but we always find a way to communicate.  and at the end, we’re usually laughing out loud.  these kids learn and eat off the land.  this is probably how Hawaii use to be a thousands of years ago…

Got Surfboards?

Good morning 4:10am.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and good.
Trade winds at 15mph.
Sunny and warm.
South swell starting tomorrow. Overhead this weekend.
Have a wonderful day!