i stayed up late last night getting my board ready for today.  unfortunately, the South swell wasn’t looking too good this morning so i decided not to surf.  i always tell people to try their brand new board out on good waves.  so i will practice what i preach…

i was up from 3am looking around for waves.  i was texting friends, watching the cams, and observing the winds.  once i found out where the best spot on the island was, i headed straight there.  twice the size as Ala Moana and only 5 guys out, so i think i made the right choice…

the drive was far, and the paddle was even farther.  thank goodness i can pump my foil all the way back to the beach…

getting daily updates on my next custom boards.  this one will be ready to get waxed up next week!

and this one will have to wait for the next big tow-in day.  i’m so excited to get my first tow-in foil board!!!

there is an old timer local that surfs at Waikiki every single day.  a very nice guy who’s name is Mark.  i watch how he approaches the waves and love the way he does it.  i would take my advanced students out there just to watch him and say “watch this guy and learn.”  he paddles for every wave and knows exactly where to position himself.   he uses his wave knowledge and finesse so when he pops up, he’s in the perfect power spot of the wave.  then the rest is easy.  if you can approach waves like this, you will maximize oceans gift to the fullest.  just watch Mark flow in this nice sequence of the day…

Backside Waikiki…

Good morning 3:45am.
South swell coming.
Ala Moana chest high sets today and good.
Diamond Head shoulder high and bumpy.
Tomorrow bigger and cleaner.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sun, showers, and rainbows.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!