there is an old timer local that surfs at Waikiki every single day. a very nice guy who’s name is Mark. i watch how he approaches the waves and love the way he does it. i would take my advanced students out there just to watch him and say “watch this guy and learn.” he paddles for every wave and knows exactly where to position himself. he uses his wave knowledge and finesse so when he pops up, he’s in the perfect power spot of the wave. then the rest is easy. if you can approach waves like this, you will maximize oceans gift to the fullest. just watch Mark flow in this nice sequence of the day…
