The Magic Can Wait

183

i stayed up late last night getting my board ready for today.  unfortunately, the South swell wasn’t looking too good this morning so i decided not to surf.  i always tell people to try their brand new board out on good waves.  so i will practice what i preach…

i was up from 3am looking around for waves.  i was texting friends, watching the cams, and observing the winds.  once i found out where the best spot on the island was, i headed straight there.  twice the size as Ala Moana and only 5 guys out, so i think i made the right choice…

the drive was far, and the paddle was even farther.  thank goodness i can pump my foil all the way back to the beach…

getting daily updates on my next custom boards.  this one will be ready to get waxed up next week!

and this one will have to wait for the next big tow-in day.  i’m so excited to get my first tow-in foil board!!!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide