for 25 years, i would drive out to the North Shore every single day.  and when Backdoor got big and good like this, i’d be out no matter what.  that was my passion.  what you don’t see in this photos are the 50 hungry and aggressive surfers behind this wave.  yes, you have to hassle, position yourself, and even fight for a wave like this.  my mindset was “don’t be nice, just stand your ground and when it’s time, you just go.”  it was my job everyday to get the best wave and best photo possible.  when i think about it now, i pretty much put my life on the line for all those years because that wave has killed many good surfers.  so i’m very thankful for walking away with just cuts, bruises, broken boards, and only two emergency room visits.   lucky me…

now my life is way different.  much more calm, much more relaxing, and much more simple.  i don’t miss fighting for waves on the North Shore anymore.  i don’t miss the drive in traffic.  and i don’t miss the competitiveness.  i like it plain and simple just like this…

Sweet Spot…

Good morning 5:15am.
Ala Moana chest high and perfect.
Diamond Head shoulder high and good.
Trade winds at 15mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

this is the coolest photo ever!  back in 1994, it was Bol’s first trip to Japan.  he surfed the Minami Cup and Tokura-san, Ganti, and i were coaching him from the beach.  he got 1st place against stiff competition from Hawaii’s Nainoa Surrat and Jason Shibata.  that was a great memory!   

i really miss Japan surf culture.  we would drive all around Japan to shop contests.  it was fun watching everybody enjoying it.   this was the Rise and Shine Users Cup in Chigasaki.

then the happy party followed.  i remember walking around with 2 big beers in my hand filling up everyone’s glass for a cheers.  i would do that all night until we ran out of beer.  then we would go the the store and get more, and do the same thing all night long.  and that was almost every weekend.  and yes, that was my job.  lucky me huh?  haha.  that was Japanese surf culture and i enjoyed it all!  

by the end of the night, everything was a blur.  i don’t remember most of it but it didn’t matter.  all us surfers knew how to have a good time and we surely did that…

super happy to see Nao-san living the happy Shonan life.  i hope someday she can enjoy one of those big surf parties!  and if i’m there she better hide because i’m coming with those 2 big bottles of beer.  haha…